Kashmir
SRINAGAR, Kashmir - The old white jeep rumbled to a stop at the rustic roadside Down Hill Restaurant, just an hour outside Srinagar. This would be my last stop on the uphill journey to a mountain city near the Pakistani border. As I stepped onto the fresh late-January snowfall, a gust of wind at 2,100 meters (7000 feet) elevation bit at me forcing me to throw my earth-toned shemagh around my neck.
I stumbled into the dhaba looking for a place to relieve myself. The sound of tinkling glass suddenly filled my ears. A cup was placed before me. I sampled the aroma wafting from the hot glass. It pulled me in. I took a sip. My eyes widened.
What is this?, I wondered aloud.
The sweet cinnamon and cardamom of the Kashmiri kahwa green tea balanced on my tongue for a moment before washing down. A warm chill made me smile. This is delicious. I clinked the mini spoon around the tea watching the saffron blades and almond wedges swirl in the golden-green brew. I understood what makes this tea famous in the northernmost region of India.
WHAT IS KASHMIR?
Kashmir is a beautiful and delectable country that over the centuries has been pulled like a rope in a tug-of-war game between major super powers vying to own for themselves the intrinsic beauty of the land. Himalayan Cashmere goats produce the wool woven into expensive and world famous pashmina scarves and shawls. It is important to grasp that one cannot simply enter the current story of Kashmir and expect to fully understand the complex and bloody history of the region without first comprehending the eternal struggle found in its past. A lot has happened to make Kashmir what it is today.
Although on paper Kashmir currently belongs to India, Pakistan has another paper that supposedly nullifies this claim. And for hundreds of years this land of beauty has been crawling with various militaries trying to hold it in their possession. But what do the people of Kashmir actually want for themselves?
In the beginning, Kashmir was established as a Hindu and Buddhist center. Over a millennium ago, Kashmir was notably recognized by the governments of the extended region. In the 14th century, Islam was established by a new ruler and it has remained ruled as such.
WHO IS THE KASHMIRI?
In an article written by the Kashmir Life online journal, they described Kashmir in the following way: “Superstition has made the Kashmiri timid. Tyranny has made him a liar, while physical disasters have made him selfish and incredulous of the existence of good.” While this is an overt cynical view, it nevertheless peels back the face mask they use to protect the essence of who they really are. The Kashmiri is human; and like all humans will demonstrate the will power to survive in an often hostile and devastating environment. Strip away oppression and you have a beautiful people. Indeed, their beauty can be seen even in the face of such critical life threats.
I put the empty glass cup down on the table. Our aromatic lamb, or “Rogan Jowsh”, snack was finished. Mountain food at its best. My Kashmiri waiter was pleased upon seeing the satisfaction on my face. It was time to continue the journey up.
Late that night we had a private rendezvous with a local man who had become a Christian - a religious minority who’s tenants would be persecuted, even killed, if discovered. Others had died. My translator’s friend had recently died because of this religious affiliation. When asked what he wanted for the Kashmiri people this man said that he and most of his friends wanted an independent Kashmir. He believed that there would be peace amongst the religions without the influence of violence to gain control of the country.
Like peace, the desire for autonomy crosses any religious and sectarian boundaries. The man had expressed his desire for peace for the people of Kashmir. He wished for the government powers and insurgency to subside their violence and warfare.
Outside it had started snowing heavy. As I got into bed I wondered what would it take for there to be peace in Kashmir. Why don’t the powers that be just relinquish their rights? Many lives would be saved. Is peace too much to ask for? I drifted off to sleep. When I awoke, I saw that the morning light produced a plush and virgin white landscape.
Up here in the snowy mountains it was peaceful, tranquil. But what about the rest of Kashmir? Down below in Srinagar the Indian army crawled through the dingy cold roads in the name of peace. Somewhere huddled inside a cold dingy house men plan another upraising in the name of peace.
In the end, the Kashmiri is a peaceful and creative people. The Kashmiris I met treated me with utmost kindness and respect. While oppressed on every side, they are not crushed. They are resilient. They press forward. They are hopeful. As the warmth of summer promises to arrive following winter, so does peace in a land fraught with the constant struggle for independence.
Entering the city I noticed while passing neighborhoods, some had strings of black flags hung over the roads, while others had green flags hanging over the roads. My translator said that they were to signify what type of Islam was followed in that particular neighborhood. All others were forbidden to enter.
We made our way to the Hazratbal Mosque on the western banks of Dal Lake. It is the only mosque in Srinagar that is domed. All others have a distinct pagoda style roof. Also known as Masjid Dargah Sharif, this shrine houses a special holy relic: a hair from the prophet Muhammad. Doves in droves fluttered as we walked past the entrance. We removed our shoes entered the mosque with permission. The women stayed behind in the “foyer” while the men went into the holy sanctuary and sat down cross-legged in the back, being careful not to disturb the men praying. I prayed for them that they would find peace and would be able to connect with God. I prayed for peace for Kashmir.
